In downtown Lexington, Virginia, it’s pretty common to hear the same thing from local shop owners and restauranteurs again and again: I came here for a vacation about 20 years ago, and I never left.
It’s easy to see why. Downtown Lexington is a gathering place distinguished by innovative cuisine, art galleries, bookstores, retail, and lodging on hilly streets that date back to the 18th century. The town preserves its history, right down to the Lexington brick you’ll see in the signature dark chocolate bar at Cocoa Mill Chocolate Company, as well as in local artwork and jewelry. Dining is top-notch, as is local wine tasting — there are 22 wineries in the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area (grape-growing region), five of which are in Rockbridge County.
The Shenandoah Valley is enveloped with mountains, lush forests, and gaping valleys that invite calm and reflection. One cannot help but slow down. Lexington is about a 20-minute drive to Natural Bridge State Park and the 469-mile-long Blue Ridge Parkway, where a few hiking routes intersect with the Appalachian Trail. Activities are far-ranging, restorative, and enlivening, from wine tasting and hiking to ax-throwing and art collecting. It’s a place to be awed by nature while immersing in a welcoming small-town community. Here are our favorite places to eat, play, and stay in Lexington!
Where to Stay
The Georges is at the junction of Main and Washington streets downtown, once part of the Great Wagon Road. The property’s first building dates back to 1789 and was formerly the Alexander-Withrow House. Now, The Georges encompasses three downtown properties, including an old livery stable with chic, stylish hotel rooms. Think luxurious bathtubs, bathrooms with heated floors, contemporary lighting, and cozy reading lamps. This property is nestled within the downtown historic district, so it’s ideal for accessing local shopping, nightlife, and historical sites.
Where to Eat
By day, the ground floor restaurant at The Georges is Season’s Yield. By night, it’s Haywood’s Piano Bar and Grill, serving upscale contemporary cuisine accompanied by live music. Haywood’s is inviting, balancing upscale dining with an upbeat, convivial atmosphere. In The Georges’s second property, across the street, a lobby lounge called TAPS offers a luxe sitting room; it’s an excellent place for a nightcap! Seasons Yield originated in 2012 when Daniel and Fawn Shear began baking bread as part of their farming endeavors. Now the Shears’ wild-leavened sourdough is sold daily at Season’s Yield. The Shear farm also offers a highly-rated Airbnb cabin and woodfired maple syrup produced from sugar maple trees in nearby Raphine, Virginia.
The Red Hen is a bucket-list dining experience, from the intimate 26-seat dining room to dessert (the moist yogurt cake with raspberry jam is stellar). Not to mention, all serving ware is made by local potters whose works can be found downtown at Earth, Fire, & Spirit Pottery. Jewelry maker Suzanna Garrett has also designed striking cocktail stirrers using metal and local stone. This is culinary artistry at its peak, and there is no going wrong with the menu. The lemon meringue pie is served in a champagne coupe with a gorgeous swirl of caramelized meringue on a lemon cloud. The steak, fish, and vegetarian entrées are all memorable.
The pizza crust at Salerno Woodfired Pizza & Taphouse is light and flavorful. Guests can use an electronic card to select their own beer from 30 self-serve taps on the PourMyBeer wall. On the lower level, try your hand at ax-throwing for a rush of adrenaline and empowerment!
Heliotrope Brewing sources local ingredients to create craft beers and delicious pizzas produced with integrity and artistry. A special yeast blend developed from local microflora is integral to sour beers, like the gose, brewed with coriander and Himalayan sea salt and finished on watermelon rind, offering the flavor of a watermelon pickle. Other great selections are the H.E. Double Hoppy Sticks, a Pacific Northwest single-hopped IPA with three iterations, and the customer-favorite blueberry sour finished with vanilla, marshmallow fluff, and graham cracker crumbs.
Southern Inn Restaurant is a historic downtown spot for fine dining. Familiar dishes are made new by chef George Huger. Again, one cannot go wrong — from succulent salmon to fried chicken to a New York Strip, and do start with pimento cheese and fried green tomatoes! Two exceptional house wines are crafted by Rockbridge Vineyard: a Viognier (a Rhône Valley variety with undertones of stone fruit) and a full-bodied Syrah.
Halcyon Days Cider Company crafts an expansive range of small-batch ciders, from dry and earthy to sweet and crisp. More than 50 apple varieties are grown on site — the orchard is a meditative labyrinth of 2,000 dwarf trees. Owner Larry Krietemeyer, a retired architect, designed the maze to show the apples’ evolution through time. The oldest variety, a Manchurian crab apple called Malus Niedzwetzkyana, is in the center, followed by European heritage, American heritage, American heirlooms, and modern American apples.
Rockbridge Vineyard and Brewery is decorated with awards from the annual Virginia Governor’s Cup. Standouts include the Dechiel Reserve series, including the Meritage (a combination of Bordeaux varietals) and a fruit-forward, peppery Syrah. Rockbridge’s Pinot Noir is a Blanc de Noirs, a white wine from a red grape that, in this case, has an orange hue. It’s delicious when chilled!
Ecco Adesso Vineyards in Fairfield, VA, delivers wine and extraordinary views. Plus, the accommodations offer a chance to relax on-site for the weekend — whether in a cabin, guest house, or loft. A stop at the nearby Lavender Fields at Tantivy Farm means the opportunity to visit lavender fields, a waterfall, and the in-house boutique, where you can pick up sprigs of the sweet-smelling flower to bring home.
Nathan and Irma Bailey own Great Valley Farm Brewery and Winery. Starting with beer, Nathan Bailey now also makes impressive wines from 100% Virginia-grown grapes, many grown on the site’s 27 estate acres. He is inspired by blending, coalescing classic varietals with hybrids. Make time for a tasting here and at Jump Mountain Vineyards.
Pure Eats is in a building that dates back to 1925, and the eatery specializes in doughnuts, burgers, and beer. The Legendary Eats spicy cheesesteak sandwich gives Philadelphia a run for its money, and Globowl Café offers fresh, organic, healthy soups and salads.
Where to Play
First, book a tour with the Lexington Carriage Company, where guides impart tidbits about local history that a roadside plaque can’t deliver. Owner Shana Purdue Layman and her team of informed guides offer interpretations of The Stonewall Jackson House, Washington and Lee University, Virginia Military Institute, Oak Grove Cemetery, and the downtown historical residential district. Details about the horses, such as their care, personalities, and routine (the farm has been in Shana’s family for 40 years), offer as much appeal as the treasure trove of history that peppers the ride.
At Natural Bridge State Park, don’t confine your visit to daytime hours. An affiliated unit of the National Park Service, this site was designated an International Dark Sky Park in April of 2021. Take advantage of the evening programming, as seeing the stars against the navy blue sky is unforgettable, particularly if the moon is shining. Self-guided hikes and monthly ranger programs are regularly part of the schedule. During ranger-led programs, all nonessential lighting is turned off for optimal stargazing. Visitors walk 20-minutes to Jefferson Point, the second-highest point in the park, or ride up on a hay wagon. On self-guided hikes, many bring telescopes and cameras. By day, explore six miles of hiking trails. In addition to the 215-foot-tall-bridge, the park’s limestone valley has worn away to form some of the deepest caverns on the East Coast.
From Lexington, drive through Buena Vista to access the Blue Ridge Parkway. Stop at Chimney Rock Mountain Overlook, Buena Vista Overlook, and House Mountain. Take a short trail at Indian Gap Parking Area to a fascinating grand-scale boulder cluster. Check out this link for additional easy access points to the Blue Ridge from Rockbridge County. Other small towns in the area to explore include Brownsburg, Glasgow, Raphine, and Fairfield.
For other enriching tours, pop into the Lexington and Rockbridge Area Tourism office downtown to arrange a walking tour of the campuses of Washington and Lee University and the Virginia Military Institute. VMI began as an arsenal and defense post after the War of 1812. Since the British did not cross the Blue Ridge, education became its focal point. Washington and Lee dates back to 1749 and is the ninth oldest college in the nation; the campus is sprawling and bucolic with examples of Greek Revival and Neoclassical architectural styles.
Build in time to browse downtown for retail therapy and immersion in local art! In addition to Earth, Fire, and Spirit Pottery, highlights include The Cabell Gallery of Virginia, the Nelson Gallery, and Artists in Cahoots. Stop into Pronto Caffè and Gelateria for tasty sandwiches and delicious coffee, and Sweet Things Ice Cream Shoppe for homemade ice cream (this business is more than 30 years old!). Other fun spots to check out are Cheese to You and Ladles and Linens, a charming home and kitchen shop with a selective and inspiring cookbook selection. Lizzie’s of Lexington has a unique collection of accessories for home and body, and the beeswax candles and vintage glassware make Sugar Maple Trading Company a must. Purveyors on Main stocks an excellent selection of wine from Virginia’s eight Viticultural Areas (did you know Virginia is home to 330 wineries?). You can also pop into Downtown Books to chat with owner Paige, who curates a thoughtful collection of classic and contemporary, as well as Bookery Limited and The Historian’s Books.
Walking sloping streets with a tableau of mountains in the backdrop is truly idyllic. Other special events throughout the year include Friday gallery walks, sidewalk sales, restaurant weeks, and many spirited holiday season events, including a tree lighting and parade.
Have you started planning your trip to Lexington yet?
All photography by Amy Beth Wright unless otherwise noted.
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