To say Marianne Eaves is a pioneer in the bourbon industry is an understatement. Named Kentucky’s first female master distiller in 2015, she has undoubtedly paved the way for women in a historically male-dominated space. A chemical engineering degree, years spent working at Brown-Forman, and her role in launching Castle & Key eventually led to her esteemed title … and then she decided to join the circus. (Well, in a manner of speaking!)
These days, Marianne adventures all over the country in an RV with her family, courtesy of her partner’s circus — a classic-meets-contemporary traveling show he created in 2014. But don’t take that to mean Marianne has abandoned distilling altogether. She develops curated tastings through Eaves Blind, her educational membership-based program for bourbon enthusiasts. She also crafted the newly released Otherland Society Wild Hare Dark Rum and continues to hone her science and artistry through her mobile “spirits lab,” a renovated circus Freightliner that once housed the traveling show’s big top.
Please welcome this week’s dynamic FACE of the South, Marianne Eaves.Â
Tell us about your path to becoming the first woman to hold the title of master distiller.
I was born in Tennessee and grew up in Kentucky, but I didn’t know anything about whiskey growing up. My parents never drank much. I grew up in a dry county, so bourbon culture wasn’t much of a part of my raising, which people find unusual!
When I graduated high school, I took time off to help my mom open a business, and that early entrepreneurship helped me get off to a different start. After that, I had to get serious about what to be when I grew up. My dad suggested I look into chemical engineering. I had no idea what that was, but I’d done auto shop, so I thought, “biodiesel, renewable energy, fuel additives … this is something cool that could be part of saving the world.” I started pursuing a chemical engineering degree, and down the road a bit, I had to find an internship. Brown-Forman, who makes Jack Daniel’s and many other beverages globally, had a pretty established relationship with the engineering school. It was a lucky coincidence that I heard Brown-Forman was hiring and happened to know someone who worked there.
I think I was the only intern old enough to drink, so I started on tasting panels. I fell in love with the industry but had no idea what I was getting into! I didn’t drink much — maybe some tequila in a sugary cocktail — but I was fascinated by the whole thing. I kept raising my hand for every opportunity they threw at me. I wanted to know everything.
I stayed with Brown-Forman for six years and rose through the ranks. I got hired full-time in 2012; from there, it was like a rocket taking off. I was approached about training with Chris Morris, the master distiller of Woodford Reserve — to be his protégé. They trained me as a master taster, and I achieved that in about a year, which was a record at the time. I love Brown-Forman and the people I worked with. I probably would have stayed there for my whole life like a lot of folks do … but I was approached by these two guys that bought a distillery in Frankfurt, KY — the former Old Taylor Distillery. All I had heard was that it was this rundown distillery down the road from Woodford Reserve. They reached out and said, “We would love for you to come and see what we’re up to.”
The day after my birthday in 2014, I went to see the site for the first time — I drove up to a limestone castle. The distillery is this massive, beautiful thing, and my breath was taken away. I thought they were a little crazy for taking the whole thing on, but long story short, I decided to leave Brown-Forman, which everybody thought I was intensely crazy for. “Why in the world would you leave Woodford when they want you to be their master distiller? They’re already globally loved.” But I thought Castle & Key was an opportunity of a lifetime, and I couldn’t miss out on it. Working at Castle & Key is when I achieved the title of Kentucky’s first female master distiller. I stayed there for four years and then moved on to be a spirits consultant in the industry.
What challenges did you face in the ‘boys club’ when your title was announced?
My partners and I talked about it because when they approached me, it was to be their master distiller. That’s what they were hiring for. And it was an even more intensive role than most master distillers have because I was restoring this historic facility while building new processes, developing new products, and doing all of the marketing and PR along the way. Most master distillers are “knighted.” They take over where the old guy before them left off. “Maintain things, just don’t screw it up” is what I’ve heard a couple of them say. So, it was a whole different thing.
They said, “Marianne, it’s up to you. Do you want to be the master distiller or something else?” I knew it was a big decision for the industry; it would change things. At the end of the day, I thought, I’m not doing myself or the other women in the industry a service if I don’t take the title. Some people said, “She’s too young; how could she possibly have the experience and knowledge it takes?” But, I think I proved them wrong.
Statistically, women tend to have more nuanced palates, so why do you think bourbon remains “a man’s world”?
When I worked at Brown-Forman, their entire sensory department (I don’t know if it’s still the case today) was women, and all men were in the position of master distiller at all of the distilleries. In most cases, women support the work of the guy with the reigns. For whatever reason, they’re structured that way; I think partially because it has always been that way — remnants of prohibition. But it’s getting there! I can definitely see a change in the landscape.
Fred Minnick wrote a book about whiskey and women and how women saved the spirit. He did a lot of research about the role of women in American, Scotch, and Irish whiskey, and there are lots of really cool stories in this book. He told me another woman was up for the job of master distiller in the ’60s, but they did not promote her because, at that time, women were required to wear dresses and skirts to work. She would have to walk up a grated floor to take the fermentation samples to assess the product quality. They thought that if she had a skirt on, men would get distracted; they couldn’t have that, so she wasn’t given the job. So, I’m the first … and in her honor.
Can you tell us more about your mobile “lab”?
Very unusually, my partner owns a traveling circus show. I converted an old Freightliner that was a circus vehicle that used to carry the tent on these cross-country tours. He has grown and now has a semi-trailer, so the box truck was available for a new life. It’s been converted into this mobile laboratory. I had a distiller friend in Denver come to look at it, and he said, “Marianne, you can’t call this a lab. It’s a lounge!” It has wooden slab bar counters and beautiful blue velvet couches. It has a vibe, for sure. We’re trying to create an inspiring workspace and continue to innovate — to have a “me zone” as we travel around the country for 40 weeks a year. I’m still trying to figure out the logistics and permits, but I’m hoping I can eventually host folks.
We would be remiss not to ask: What’s your favorite bourbon?
I still really love Woodford Double Oaked. It’s the first one I fell in love with, but there have been lots since then. Woodinville in Washington is one that I love, and Oregon Spirit Distillers makes exceptional products that are unexpected … Kings County (in New York) and Garrison Brothers (in Texas) were my first non-Kentucky bourbons where I was like, “Wow, this is amazing. These guys are making what?” Up to now, I’ve never been a huge Scotch person, but Kings County’s peated bourbon does it for me.
What is the best piece of advice you’ve ever received?
It was from my dad, and it was one of the things that made me stand out at Brown-Forman. He said, “If this is really where you want to work, tell them that you’ll mop the floors — any way that you can get in the door, and then show them the value you bring. Operate like you are doing the job that you want to be doing.” You’ve got to make sure that when people think of a job they need to have done, they think of you.
Outside of faith, family, and friends, what three things can’t you live without?
Instagram has been such a huge connector for me — having this ability to reach out to people and say, “Hey, I love what you’re doing. I’m coming to town. I don’t know if you know anything about me, but I’d love to say hey and try it out.” I’ve been able to foster and feel a connection with folks; that community has been vital. My Berkey water filter — I go from place to place in these different regions of the U.S. and having a good water filter for what I do (especially cutting and tasting) is extremely important. And I’m grateful that we live in an RV — these big adventures we get to have because we live in a box on wheels. The beauty of this nomadic traveling life is that when we stop for the night, no matter where we are in the world, we have our home with us.
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Read more interviews with our inspirational FACES in our archives!
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