In America, we’re fond of saying, “That’s not my cup of tea.” In ocean-obsessed Brazil, a charming phrase expresses the same idea: “Não é a minha praia,” translating to: “It’s not my beach.” Brazilians understand that beaches have individual personalities — the waves crashing on a surfing beach might not be the best for a family with small children, just like a singles’ party beach probably isn’t the best place to settle under an umbrella to finish that summer read.
North Carolina’s southern coast, which stretches from the South Carolina line to the mouth of the Cape Fear River which leads to the port city of Wilmington, is collectively known as the Brunswick Islands. The five barrier islands each have their unique charms, and surrounding towns on the mainland on the north side of the Intracoastal Waterway contribute different experiences that make a Brunswick Island vacation special.
From the iconic Calabash-style fried seafood to the aquatic playground of Ocean Isle Beach to the quaint seafront of Southport, there’s something for just about everyone along this 45-mile-long stretch of beautiful beaches. Golfers can enjoy more than 30 courses in the area, some designed by legends like Arnold Palmer and Fred Couples. And speaking of couples, Brunswick Island is an ideal place for romantic getaways or destination weddings.
Easily accessible from two major airports within an hour’s drive from Myrtle Beach or Wilmington, getting to the Brunswick Islands is a snap from just about any major city in the eastern half of the country.
The only tricky part about a Brunswick Island vacation is figuring out where to spend most of your time. With so many choices, you might be tempted to try to visit all of them in one trip. While possible, the Intracoastal runs behind each island, separating them from each other and the mainland, so traveling from place to place usually requires passing over at least two bridges as you leapfrog from island to island. It’s a lovely drive, to be sure. But plan to spend a little extra time in the car if you want to sample the glories of all the Brunswick Islands.
Another detail to consider is that each beach has different regulations that add to the unique character of the locale. Some beaches allow dogs on the sand at certain times of the day and year, while others have regulations about whether you can bring your own cabana. Speed limits vary from island to island, and some are pretty friendly to golf cart travel, especially since parking can sometimes be scarce. Thanks to the flatness of the topography, bicycles are a great way to get around, and with low tides sometimes exposing an extra hundred feet of rock-hard sand, a ride along the oceanfront can be a treat!
Finding your beach is half the fun, so here are some quick profiles to help you get started as you plan your Brunswick Islands itinerary:
Sunset Beach is the westernmost of the Brunswick Islands, except for Bird Island, an uninhabited nature preserve accessible only by walking along the shore from Sunset Beach. The main reason to make that walk is because Bird Island is home to the Kindred Spirit Mailbox, a magical spot where people share their thoughts and dreams on paper and place them in the receptacle for others to be inspired. Made famous by the Nicholas Sparks novel Every Breath, the 1-mile+ walk to and from the box is a great way to stretch your legs and do a little personal reflection.
Sunset Beach itself is very family-focused, with few businesses on the island to distract. Enjoy quality family time on the vast, walkable beaches or enjoy meals together in one of the island’s many rental properties. There are only a couple of small shops and spots to eat on the island, but there are plenty of options just across the bridge.
The Sunset Inn is a delightful choice for anyone not seeking an entire house to rent. A lovely property on the island’s backside, it’s only a short walk to the beach and combines modern amenities with island charm. The friendly staff is accommodating and provides a delicious breakfast each morning. They also lay out snacks for you to take back to your room while you watch something from the library of DVDs. Each room is a suite with a private screened-in porch where you can watch the sunset across the marsh under the bridge.
Crossing that bridge, you’ve got a couple of choices. A left turn takes you west toward Calabash, which isn’t actually an island or a beach but a prototypical fishing village filled with fantastic seafood restaurants. “Calabash-style” means lightly-battered deep-fried fish, clams, shrimp, or soft shell crabs, and you can find it in the tiny seafood shacks that line the Calabash River. For more upscale fare, try The Oyster Rock.
A right turn from the end of the bridge leads to the road to Ocean Isle Beach, a water lover’s paradise. Much of the island has canals cutting through the middle, allowing even more water access from docks at homes that line the waterways. Even though you’re rarely more than a short walk away from the ocean along the thin strips of land that make up the Brunswick Islands, on OIB, almost every vacation home is either ocean-front or on a canal that leads to the Intracoastal and then the sea.
Even without a boat, the wide beaches offer plenty of Atlantic access, and the island is home to a turtle rescue team that cares for loggerhead nests up and down the coast. If you see volunteers working around a nest, give them a little space, but they’re happy for you to observe and ask questions. The long pier on the shore is popular with fishermen and makes for a great people-watching perch.
Visitors take to the canals and marshes to fish, paddleboard, and kayak, but the town side of OIB offers plenty of land-based activities like miniature golf and go-karts for the kids, plus bars, restaurants, and clubs for adults. Feast OIB and Sharky’s are popular spots for seafood, and sunset cocktails upstairs at Jinks Creek Waterfront Grille are a mandatory experience when visiting Ocean Isle Beach.
Continuing east, you’ll cross a couple more bridges that take you to Holden Beach, a frequent entry on lists of the best family-friendly beaches in the country. Less commercial than OIB, Holden Beach depends almost entirely on private homes for rentable accommodations, but there’s plenty of variety among the available properties. From couples looking for a quick getaway to multi-generation families seeking a weeklong rental, there are bound to be great options.
Exuding a small-town vibe, visitors make their own entertainment on Holden Beach. It’s a shell hunter’s dream, and low tide exposes plenty of beachcomber booty and small pools where kids can discover all sorts of interesting sea life. It’s also fun to watch the working shrimp fleet return to port with their holds full of delicious crustaceans.
Next up is Oak Island, the largest of the barrier islands. With two bridges allowing for easier access, Oak Island is more of a residential community than the rest of the Brunswick Islands. Vacationers tend to congregate near the beachfront and on the marshes, but the middle of the island offers commercial businesses like grocery stores and tire shops, so residents don’t need to leave the island for basic necessities.
With more than 60 public beach access points, plus a marina, boat and kayak ramps, and fishing piers, Oak Island nicely combines tourist amenities with a standard of living, making it popular among retirees. It’s also an exceptionally dog-friendly destination, with on-leash pups allowed on the beach year-round. Off-leash dogs are permitted during the low season, from October to March.
Visit the Oak Island Nature Center to learn about the salt marsh’s complex ecosystem, or kick back at Island Way for steaks and seafood with an ocean view in a casual environment.
The eastern end of Oak Island is a separate community called Caswell Beach. Upscale homes line the maze of creeks and canals, and a golf course is tucked in along the shore with water in play on half the holes. The primary attraction in Caswell Beach is the 153’-tall Oak Island Lighthouse, the last lighthouse built in the state. Make reservations in advance if you want to climb to the top on a series of ship’s ladders. It’s 131 steps to the pinnacle and a workout that rewards you with spectacular views.
It’s almost impossible to describe the town of Southport without mentioning the word “charming.” The quaint seaport on the mouth of the Cape Fear River has been featured in many television shows and movies, including Safe Haven, A Walk To Remember, The Secret Life of Bees, and Under The Dome. Start your visit at the Southport Museum and Visitor’s Center for info on the movie shoots and to learn about the town’s maritime history.
If you’re lucky, you might catch a crafts fair in the city’s hub, but you can also stroll the sidewalks and window shop at boutiques and gift shops. Make sure to follow Bay Street toward the yacht basin to see the historic waterfront homes. An array of fantastic seafood restaurants surrounds the port, and you’ll know you’re in the right place when you spy the line stretching out the door of Provision Company. This fantastic seafood shack offers unparalleled views of the Intracoastal. You might even spot dolphins or an alligator swimming through the harbor.
A fun day trip out of Southport is the ferry ride to nearby Bald Head Island, home to a luxury inn, upscale rental cottages, salt marshes, protected maritime forests, and the state’s oldest lighthouse. Accessible only by boat (cars aren’t allowed on Bald Head), you’ll need to rent bicycles or a golf cart to visit “Old Baldy.” The sturdy brick beacon has guided ships through the dangerous rocky shoals at the mouth of the Cape Fear River since the early 19th century. Visit the lighthouse museum and take a trip to the top for views of the entire island.
With all these options, it might take multiple trips to the Brunswick Islands to discover “your beach,” but there aren’t any bad choices!
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