An Ode to Margot Cafe: Au Revoir Mon Amie

“Southern Voices” is a reader-submitted platform. Today’s essay comes from Brigitte Lanford of Nashville, who reflects on the city’s evolving restaurant landscape and the impending closure of a beloved local favorite.

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I am a 66-year-old woman who has lived in Nashville since 1985. I have raised two wonderful children here and am now watching my beautiful twin granddaughters grow up too quickly. I have been lucky enough to eat some great food in my life — from mamaw’s flaky biscuits to amazing barbecue to the dishes of James Beard winners. I have loved the great dives around the world as well as many MICHELIN-starred restaurants. With the closing of one of my favorite places in Nashville, I would like to share some thoughts on our changing dining scene.

As we approach the dreaded June closing date of our beloved Margot Cafe, I must share some thoughts. I was a devoted fan of Margot McCormack during her time at F. Scott’s and was beyond thrilled when she decided to open her own restaurant in Five Points. As a west sider in 2001, it is fair to say most people did not venture across the river to dine.

However, all of that changed once Margot introduced everyone to her Alice Waters-inspired farm-to-table cuisine.

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This did not happen overnight. But with time, people were scrambling for a table at this amazing new restaurant. Her menu changes daily and is focused on locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. It may not sound like a big deal to change a menu daily, but this takes an incredible amount of work and creativity. I don’t think people can fully appreciate how much goes into this and how lucky we are to be able to enjoy it. She has developed such long-lasting relationships with her purveyors and farmers, and this shows in all her dishes.

As this magical place readies to close its doors, it makes me reflect on all the changes in the Nashville restaurant scene. With the growth in population due to our popularity as a city, we are seeing many dining additions. Some are exciting, and I’ll admit, fun to try. Most of these are not chef-owned and operated, and often the chef who opened an expansion here is miles and miles away. It seems it is more about the “vibe” at these places, as opposed to the food or the service.

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I recognize there is a niche for these types of places, but I hate to see us lose these other rare gems. When the chef is at their restaurant cooking, or at least involved in the daily running of it, it is their baby, so to speak. They are the ones giving their blood, sweat, and tears every day. Their reputation is on the line, and you can see and feel their pride in everything they serve.

Philip Krajeck, Tandy Wilson, the charming Poli brothers, Hal Holden-Bache, Sean Brock, Julia Sullivan, Jake Howell, Josh Habiger, Trevor Moran, Vivek Surti, Leina Horii, and Brian Lea (to name a few) are all still doing this, and it shows in their beautiful, tasty food.

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As for Margot, I will miss the warm, family-like atmosphere where all the staff say hello to you when you arrive. I will miss them asking about my life and watching my children grow up. I will miss Heather answering the phone sometimes and getting a chance to catch up with her. I will miss Destin trying his best to work me in when I call wanting a last-minute reservation. I will miss all the bartenders who knew our favorite drinks, especially Brian and Jayda. I will miss the always debonair Greg describing the menu highlights as only he can. I will miss Rachel’s sweet, smiling face and her amazing knowledge of each ingredient in each dish.

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Mostly, I will miss Margot and now Hadley making their rounds through the restaurant and talking with the diners. They always make you feel so very welcome with their beautiful smiles. I am sure I have missed naming many of the incredible staff I have had the pleasure of getting to know over the years. I truly love you all!

These are intangible pleasures we will all miss as we are hurled into the world of the many hot new restaurants coming our way in the next several years. As for me, give me a fabulous meal in a warm, welcoming environment over a cool vibe any day! These are the things that will last, and we will remember them with fondness.

So it is with great sadness and tears that I say goodbye to this place that has been in my family’s and my life for so many years. However, I will cherish the wonderful memories and all the amazing people I have gotten to know by dining at this truly special place.

I wish you all the very best in whatever comes next for you. Twenty-five years is an incredible feat in any industry, especially this one. You should be so very proud! And Margot, my dear friend … what a hell of a ride!

If you have a story to tell, take a look at the guidelines for Southern Voices submissions here.

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