Meet Leina Horii of Kisser, Nashville’s Only James Beard 2024 Finalist!
From pop-ups to a recent James Beard nomination, get to know Leina Horii of Kisser, the woman behind one of Nashville's hottest new eateries.
The rise of Nashville’s Kisser has been remarkable, largely thanks to its chef and co-owner, Leina Horii. The former Catbird Seat sous chef had long considered opening a Japanese cafe but opted for a smaller start. She and her husband, Chef Brian Lea, began pop-ups in July 2022 at farmers’ markets and venues like The Patterson House and Bastion, including collaborations with notable chefs like Sean Brock. Pop-ups soon paved the way for a brick-and-mortar in East Nashville, which quickly became one of the hottest seats in town.
Cut to April 2024 — Kisser has been honored as Nashville’s only 2024 James Beard Award finalist for Best New Restaurant. We caught up with Leina to talk about career shifts, comfort food, and what it means to be a finalist!
What inspired you to start cooking?
Both of my parents cook — my parents own a sushi restaurant; my father is the sushi chef, and my mother runs the kitchen. I feel like it is in my DNA to cook! I graduated from NYU as a premed student but always loved the restaurant industry. It was a major disappointment to my parents that after all that schooling, I wanted to cook for a career!
What is the story behind opening Kisser?
My husband and I started as a farmers’ market stand and pop-up. “Kisser” is a play on the Japanese word “kissaten,” which means a neighborhood hangout for food, tea, and music. It has always been our dream to have a little casual Japanese restaurant.
We would be remiss not to ask … How does it feel to be a 2024 James Beard Award FINALIST?!
Crazy! We’re a couple of nobodies!
Are there any childhood memories that inspired your current restaurant menu?
Every single item on the menu is built from a childhood memory or connection.
What is your go-to comfort food, and where do you go for it if not in your own kitchen?
Udon is my “last meal” food; I love making the noodles from scratch. When not making it myself, Raku in NYC is my go-to spot.
Are you a “night owl” or an “early bird?” What is your favorite thing to do during your quiet time?
I am definitely a night owl. My quiet time is “home time” — making a simple meal, reading, and being a cat parent.
Tell us one thing that people might be surprised to learn about you.
Cooking was a second career for me — I didn’t start professionally until I was 30. It’s never too late to follow your dreams!
What’s the one thing you wish everyone knew about what you do?
We — our staff, Brian, and I — put our all into this little restaurant. There are so many hearts and minds that go into our little lunch spot.
What is the most valuable advice you’ve ever been given, and who gave it to you?
“Never burn your bridges.” [That was told to me] by my father.
Excluding faith, family, and friends, what three things can’t you live without?
Hope, love, and good food.
LIGHTNING ROUND
Favorite ingredient to use when cooking: Mushrooms
Best-kept Nashville secret: McKay’s Books. They have an amazing selection of used cookbooks!
Most memorable book you’ve read: Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World by Haruki Murakami
Dish you would eat every day if given the chance: My mother’s udon that she made every Sunday for lunch.
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Nashville women are doing inspiring work. Meet more of them over at our FACES archives!
Jenna von Oy Bratcher
Jenna von Oy Bratcher is StyleBlueprint's Associate Editor and Lead Nashville Writer. The East Coast native moved to Nashville almost two decades years ago, by way of Los Angeles. She is a lover of dogs, strong coffee, traveling, and exploring the local restaurant scene bite by bite.