I Spent 48 Hours in the Alabama Black Belt — Here’s Why You Should, Too
Biscuits, beautiful quilts, and unforgettable stories! A mother-daughter getaway along Alabama's new Maker's Trail reveals why this special corner of the South deserves a visit. Image: Erin Wilson
Earlier this month, my mom and I set out from Birmingham (with too much luggage for a two-night trip) and headed south to Greensboro, Alabama, population 2,000. We spent the next 48 hours exploring the Alabama Black Belt and newly created Maker’s Trail, learning so much about the places and people that make up this charming area that’s just a 90-minute drive from Birmingham.
While this area of our state has a dark and tragic history, we left with deep hope after meeting and learning from the makers, business owners, and locals who make it such a wonderful place to visit. There is still work to be done, but the Black Belt of Alabama is brimming with warm, creative people who share stories that reach far beyond the state lines. It was a gift to meet and learn from the residents, artisans, and storytellers who call this part of our great state home.
Day One: Backroads, Biscuits, and B&Bs
Our first stop was lunch at Ruan Thai, an authentic Thai restaurant run by the husband-and-wife team of Chef Sasiwan “Alp” Yeager and her husband, Van. In a touching moment after the meal, Van stood and thanked his wife for the unique gifts and cuisine she brought to the area, and expressed how honored he is to stand by and support her dreams. His kindness made our lunch feel extra special, and we left with full hearts — and full bellies!
What started as a slow, meandering lunch and afternoon in Greensboro quickly picked up as we wound through rural pastures and back roads to Marion, Alabama. There, we were welcomed into a historic home for the Chef Scott Peacock Biscuit Experience.
Award-winning Chef Scott makes these Southern staples in a manner that honors “the way they would have been made hundreds of years ago.” He taught us many tips and tricks, including how to notice the small moments of light in a kitchen, how tea leaves settle as they steep, and how to tell when biscuits are ready by the aroma coming from the oven.
Of course, no biscuit experience is complete without a tasting, and ours were served fresh from the oven with butter and sugared raspberries. Needless to say, they disappeared fast.
After such a busy first day, we couldn’t wait to return to our cozy room at Evelyn Bed and Breakfast in Greensboro. Small bed-and-breakfasts like the Evelyn are a great way to connect with a destination, as they often offer rich history and local perspectives.
We met the owner, who shared the property’s storied past, and we learned that many of the rugs, as well as much of the art and china, were left by the home’s original owners. Our room was bright and comfortable, with blue floral wallpaper in the bathroom. My mom and I hunkered down in our twin beds to relive our day while enjoying complimentary snacks and wine.
Day Two: Sumac Cottage and Civil Rights
The next morning, after a homemade breakfast, we set off for a natural dyeing experience at Sumac Cottage. As we walked up to the 1800s cottage, I was overwhelmed by its whimsy and color. Once a nearly condemned building, it has been restored by artists and now hosts gallery events, art installations, creative workshops, and more.
We spent some time viewing Aaron Sanders Head’s exquisitely hand-dyed quilts and tapestries before heading to the covered porch for a lesson on the natural dye foraging process. Soon, we were donning rubber gloves and submerging our fabric, elbow-deep, into large pots of dye to make our own creations.
The best part of the experience was learning how to create patterns with rubber bands — which felt similar to making tie-dye shirts as a kid. Aaron led our workshop and shared how he grew his own indigo and foraged for local sumac, black walnuts, and goldenrod to make the different dye vats that give his textile art its vibrant color. It was a fun experience akin to a science experiment!
We left our items to dry in the sun while we grabbed a quick lunch in downtown Greensboro. Then it was time to hit the road to Selma, where we took a guided tour of some of the most significant spots in the Civil Rights movement, including the Edmund Pettus Bridge and Brown Chapel.
Along the way, our tour guide shared firsthand accounts of her experience as a young foot soldier in the movement. The sobering journey ended in front of a series of murals in the future home of Foot Soldiers Park.
Following the eye-opening tour, we walked to Arts Revive to meet a truly one-of-a-kind artist, Mr. Charlie Lucas, also known as the “Tin Man.”
Charlie welcomed us to his large studio space full of metal scraps and old-school lunch tables, where he hosts an annual summer camp. We couldn’t have prepared ourselves for the amount of art and creativity we’d see in his large warehouse! Everywhere we turned, there were sculptures, installations, and mixed media paintings, along with the tools he used to create each unique piece.
In Charlie’s words, each one of his works has a piece of him in it. His inspiration comes from within and through the lessons he learned as a young man who had to make the most out of what he had. He recalled having to dig through a local dump for a pair of shoes and, when he couldn’t find any, chose to “funkify” himself by wearing a mismatched pair to a party, creating a truly individual look.
That same principle carries over to his art, which is “funkified” with pieces like “The Trojan Horse,” made of metal and wood and filled with Trojan soldiers crafted from piano keys. Charlie is a true original, and it was an amazing experience to walk through his world for an afternoon.
After dinner and a comfortable stay with a stunning river view at the recently reopened St. James Hotel, we headed toward our final destination: Gee’s Bend.
Day Three: The Art of Quilting in Gee’s Bend
The Gee’s Bend quilters are a treasure, but they live in a rural part of Alabama that can be difficult to get to, with winding roads and single-lane highways. However, that doesn’t deter the hundreds of people from around the country who come each year to the annual Airing of the Quilts Festival.
We got a lesson from renowned quilter Mary Margaret Pettway and listened as she shared stories of how she learned her craft as a teen and later passed the skills along to her own children. She was generous with her time and a wonderful teacher — but quick to tell you to change your stitches if she thought you needed to! As an added treat, beloved quilter Doris Pettway Hacketts stopped in to offer her pointers and rich perspective on the Gee’s Bend quilting legacy.
The festival was wonderful, filled with an array of booths featuring quilts ranging from small wall hangings to full-sized bed coverings. I even found a small quilted pillow with a sweet pink-and-yellow star pattern for my daughter.
The heat drove us to the food area for relief, and we found BBQ vendors, burgers, fried fish, and a frozen lemonade vendor so good I went back twice!
After our snack, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Birmingham. We spent the ride home talking about our trip and our favorite moments. My mom enjoyed learning about Mr. Charlie’s art in Selma, while the highlight for me was the storytelling we heard along the way.
The Black Belt treated us well, and I left feeling grateful for the people who make it one of the richest places to visit in Alabama. Spending time in this part of the state is a gift. It allows you to slow down, reflect, and enjoy the people and places that make up this creative and colorful area.
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Erin Slay Wilson
Erin Slay Wilson is the Market Leader for StyleBlueprint Birmingham. She lives in the Crestwood neighborhood with her family and their golden retriever, Butter. When Erin isn't writing and building relationships within the community, she loves to read, go on walks around the city, garden, and scope out treasures at local antique malls.
