Meet Charleston Jewelry Designer Jane Pope Cooper

Jane Pope Jewelry is a fine jewelry brand handcrafting unique, wearable heirloom pieces with a modern, elevated elegance. From concept to casting to customizing, each piece is made in Charleston, SC, with a focus on sustainable, ethical sourcing and manufacturing. We chatted with Jane about her path to success and her commitment to supporting women throughout her journey.

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First, why did you set up shop in Charleston?

I was born in a small town in South Carolina. My parents still live in Newberry today. I spent most of my childhood there before heading off to boarding school for high school. I have lived in a few different places since then, but about eight years ago, I came back to Sullivan’s Island, where I live now with my children. I am in my forever home and couldn’t be happier.

Before there was Jane Pope Jewelry, there was the wildly successful BALBOA Jewelry. What can you tell us about that first experience?

I started making jewelry as a hobby/business in 2000 with my dear friend Sydney Gaylord. We had the BEST time taking BALBOA on the road for trunk shows and reaching out to magazines for placement (which we got in most major fashion publications). We were young and fearless.

We sent the buyer at Barneys our line sheets, which we had made by photocopying our one-of-a-kind necklaces at Kinkos and writing the style numbers and prices on them. It was such a different time! The buyer reached out and said she would love to meet us if we were ever in the city. We made a trip up the next week! Sydney had a friend working at Vogue, so we also got into the Condé Nast building to meet several publications and even made it into the Vogue beauty closet. It was pretty much a dream-come-true trip and solidified the relationship with Barneys.

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Sydney decided to hang up her jewelry-making hat for motherhood a year and a half later, but I had a strong relationship with Barneys for another eight years. They even used BALBOA vintage pins on their NYT Sunday Styles cover on the Fourth of July weekend one year. I have had many “pinch me” moments.

How did the BALBOA line lead into Jane Pope Jewelry?

The BALBOA vibe was vintage reworked, handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces. After Barneys and other retailers picked us up, we did a big charm iteration where you could make customizable charm necklaces on our website. I remember being featured on Daily Candy and my website crashing. I have learned so much through my trial-and-error approach to figuring things out. I went back to school for fine jewelry design and fabrication after becoming more interested in the materials and elevated pieces that now define Jane Pope Jewelry.

I studied fine jewelry design at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). It was incredibly technical, but it gave me the skills to illustrate designs for production. From there, I went to a fabrication school in New York to learn all aspects of creating the pieces. This intensive program taught me all about forging metal, setting stones, wax carving, casting, and finishing. The pretty part emerged as I began using these skills to create beautiful, unique JP pieces.

If you had to sum up Jane Pope Jewelry in three words, what would they be?

Elevated. Wearable. Intentional.

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You have financed every step of your business. What advice do you have for women who are “bootstraping” the pursuit of their ideas and passions as you have?

My little piece of advice would be to make sure you really want it and are willing to WORK for it. I was very lucky to be able to finance my growing business. Doing so has given me the freedom to make the choices I think are best. I have considered seeking investors, but I know I would lose control of some of the magic I have created with my team.

I also have an extra stake in every risk and success of JP Jewelry because I have autonomy over the direction I take the business. There are plenty of aspects some people see as downsides to being the boss, but the upside of making decisions with my team in mind versus having the input of investors is well worth it.

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You say you are an environmentalist at heart. How does that inform your life and work with JP Jewelry?

I look out the window of my home on Sullivan’s Island and know I want to protect this beautiful earth the best I can. It can be discouraging when people won’t do their part, but I have to hope that by keeping waste down, recycling everything I can, composting at home, and attempting to have a positive impact will help. I am constantly digging through the trash when I see something that should be recycled in the wrong bin. I love finding ways to cut down on waste, to be more streamlined, and to be most efficient.

I like to think making forever pieces that are meant to be passed down for generations is the ultimate example of how sustainability informs my designs. I never get over my own JP pieces. I stack them differently, remove something, add something, change how I style them to give them new life, and rediscover my love for them.

What does the generational tie of heirloom jewelry mean to you personally?

I was raised around stylish women. Some were intentionally so — like my grandmother — but some had a more accidentally cool style — like my mom. I always eyed their shoes, dresses, and jewelry, and often snuck something from my mom’s closet or jewelry box to wear. I love the idea of mixing old and new, passing things down, and seeing styles gain new life through generations.

Jewelry is such a personal expression, and when it’s shared and passed down, it makes it even more special. I want to create pieces people love so much they can’t imagine not passing them on to their daughters or sons one day. JP pieces are ageless and timeless. They are modern classics made for women who appreciate something truly special, handmade, and one-of-a-kind.

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You started your own casting company, Conscious Casting, led entirely by women. Why is carving out a place for women in the industry important to you?

Starting my own female-powered casting company was a dream for a long time. Having to work with the mostly male-dominated world of 47th Street, I was eager to do something different. I wanted to build a team of women who could problem-solve in the fine jewelry manufacturing space. It felt like a natural and necessary next step.

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Who or what is inspiring you right now?

Travel. Colors, shapes, and architecture in travel bring such richness to the design process. Stone choices often lead the design process as well. The shapes, sizes, and colors can guide me on where I want to take a design idea. I am headed to Italy with my daughter this summer and am super excited to get inspired. I love time with my favorite girl in the whole world, and we have never been to Italy, just the two of us together. I am really looking forward to seeing what inspires me and what I come back with.

What’s on the horizon for JP Jewelry?

We are always working on new pieces. Because JP Jewelry is evergreen and seasonless, I try to think of new releases as a supplement to what we already have. We just released a collection of JP Bezel Set Gemstone Pendants, which can be purchased to add to a chain you already own, or paired with one of our chains at the length you prefer. I am partial to a long JP Ball Chain with the Bezel Set Ruby and Tourmaline Gemstones. I am also working on a group of discs based on the guiding principles of my life that should launch later this summer. Having meaning behind each piece makes them incredibly special.

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