An Ode to Oxford: How to Eat Your Way Through This Delicious Small Town
Oxford, MS, is known for its literary legacy, but the dining scene tells a story of its own. Here's how to make your way through one of the South's most delicious small towns. Image: Visit Oxford / Saint Leo
Every year, my daughter and I set off in search of a Southern town with stories to tell. We wander antique shops, admire historic neighborhoods, sample regional fare, and soak up as much local culture as possible before heading home. This year, we set our sights on Oxford, Mississippi.
At first glance, Oxford seems destined to be remembered for its literary pedigree. After all, it’s the hometown of William Faulkner, and independent bookstores anchor The Square. But somewhere between tracing the footsteps of famous writers and strolling beneath century-old trees, something else happened.
Oxford called to us with its books and history, then stole our hearts through its restaurants.
Oxford makes for an easy weekend escape. We drove from Nashville, and it’s about 90 minutes past Memphis.
Upon our arrival, we checked into The Oliver Hotel, a boutique property overlooking Oxford’s historic Square, and we immediately understood why it’s become one of the city’s most sought-after places to stay. Sophisticated and welcoming, it put us within walking distance of nearly everything on our itinerary, making it easy to explore at our own pace and take breaks back at the hotel when we needed a short rest.
Our culinary adventure began almost immediately.
Kingswood & Nightbird
We arrived in that sweet spot between lunch and dinner, so our first stop was Kingswood, the hotel’s contemporary Southern restaurant. We ordered a few small bites, including duck egg rolls (and a cocktail for me), then spent a quiet hour reading together before officially beginning our tour of Oxford.
Before heading upstairs, we couldn’t resist taking a peek behind a wallpapered door hiding in plain sight. That’s where you’ll find Nightbird, The Oliver’s intimate speakeasy. Because Nightbird is a 21-and-over space, we admired it from the doorway, catching just enough of its moody ambiance to understand why it’s become one of Oxford’s hidden gems.
City Grocery
When it comes to outstanding food, one name kept coming up throughout our visit: James Beard Award-winning chef John Currence. His influence is woven into Oxford’s dining scene, from the legendary City Grocery to the globally inspired Snackbar, beloved institution Big Bad Breakfast, and the lively Southern favorite Bouré (we didn’t make it to the latter two, but it was only for lack of time in the day!).
Perched above Oxford’s historic Square, City Grocery has been setting the standard for elevated Southern dining for more than three decades. It has long been considered one of Oxford’s defining restaurants, and after one dinner, it’s easy to understand why.
Helmed by Executive Chef Jon Davis (JD), the Michelin-recommended restaurant is known for inventive seasonal cuisine, warm hospitality, and one of the city’s most iconic upstairs bars.
Chef JD surprised us with an order of the Bourbon & Black Pepper BBQ Shrimp, and to say it was delicious doesn’t do it justice. Swimming in a buttery sauce with charred lemon, fresh chives, and thick slices of crusty French bread, it was an unexpected gift that perfectly captured Oxford’s warm and welcoming hospitality.
My daughter got the Crab Bisque, while I took Chef’s recommendation and ordered the Green Curry Fish Stew, a dish that has made an indelible mark on my memory. Months later, it’s still the first thing that comes to mind when I think about City Grocery.
With that said, there were plenty of other dishes that jumped out at me, including the Quail & Waffle and Cajun Meatballs with Creole Gravy. Tough decisions had to be made.
Good Day Café
The next morning, we toured Rowan Oak, William Faulkner’s beautifully preserved home, and spent hours browsing Square Books, one of the South’s most wonderful bookstores. We also ducked into Neilson’s Department Store, the South’s oldest continuously operating store, where more than 185 years of history are woven into every creaky floorboard and display case.
Between stops, we wandered in and out of boutiques and storefronts, blissfully losing track of time. Lunch at Good Day Cafe provided the perfect reset.
Beloved by locals (and serving super delicious eats!), Good Day Cafe offers creative salads, sandwiches, and comforting café fare alongside a thoughtfully curated wine list. We were thoroughly charmed. Not to mention, owner Joe Stinchcomb is an absolute joy to talk to!
I ordered The Good Salad, topped with marinated chicken thigh, and every ingredient was perfection: romaine, cucumbers, pickled red onions, candied almonds, ricotta salata, and a fantastic avocado yogurt dressing. It’s legitimately one of my favorite salads I’ve ever eaten.
My daughter got The Turk sandwich (featuring turkey, bacon, Swiss cheese, avocado, arugula, rosemary aioli, and tomato jam on sourdough), but I was too obsessed with my salad to sample it!
Miscellanea Spirit House
Oxford clearly enjoys keeping a few secrets. That evening, we found ourselves stepping through what appeared to be an ordinary wardrobe, only to emerge inside Miscellanea Spirit House, a relatively new cocktail bar that’s part speakeasy and part Chronicles of Narnia wonderland.
Much larger than you might expect from its unassuming entrance, Miscellanea unfolds into a series of rooms, each with its own distinct personality. We claimed seats in a cozy, red-hued room, where I enjoyed a pre-dinner cocktail. Whether you’re craving a classic Sidecar or something more adventurous, the cocktail program is every bit as imaginative as the space itself.
Snackbar
If City Grocery established Oxford’s culinary reputation, Snackbar reinforced it. Another restaurant from John Currence, Snackbar leans into Mediterranean flavors while celebrating Southern ingredients. The dining room’s eclectic artwork is almost as memorable as the menu. (In fact, one piece captivated me so completely that it might still be my iPhone wallpaper!)
Dinner began with a rich French onion soup before giving way to a trio of broiled oysters topped with chimichurri butter, bacon-bourbon butter, and Creole butter. Each topping brought something different to the table, making it nearly impossible to pick a favorite.
Bottletree Bakery
By our final morning, we had settled comfortably into Oxford’s rhythm. Coincidentally, Ole Miss was on spring break during our visit, lending the town an even quieter, more relaxed vibe. Without the usual buzz of campus life, it was easy to imagine Oxford exactly as generations of writers and artists have experienced it.
We started the day at Bottletree Bakery, a beloved neighborhood go-to known for its European-style breads, pastries, coffee, and relaxed atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to ease into the morning before exploring town.
We sidled up to the counter, enjoyed a bagel sandwich and homemade coffee cake, and watched a steady stream of neighbors wander in and out. It was one of those simple moments that says as much about a place as any landmark ever could.
Saint Leo
Just off The Square, Saint Leo pairs wood-fired Italian cooking with seasonal ingredients and an excellent wine program. The menu ranges from handmade pastas to beautifully blistered pizzas. And after spending the morning exploring antiques and local shops, Saint Leo provided exactly what we needed.
Owner Emily Blount envisioned Saint Leo as a place where the generosity of a family table meets the energy of a city restaurant, and that’s exactly how it feels. A 2017 James Beard Foundation “Best New Restaurant” semifinalist, Saint Leo pairs wood-fired Italian cooking with seasonal ingredients, local purveyors, and an excellent wine program.
My daughter and I split a pizza, and it was exactly what we were craving after a morning of exploring. Creative combinations like the Bacon Jam & Calabrian Chili Honey, Grilled Corn & Roasted Poblano with fennel sausage, and Stracciatella & Garlic Confit showcase the kitchen’s playful approach while staying true to the simple beauty of wood-fired cooking.
SoLa
After several days of exploring Oxford, we’d learned to expect the unexpected. Our final dinner was no exception. It happened to land on a Thursday, which meant one thing: ramen night at SoLa. And believe me, the locals are all about it!
Chef Erika Lipe’s intimate restaurant keeps its menu intentionally small, but the flavors are mighty. We began with silky whipped feta before diving into egg roll ramen, an inventive bowl that was fun, comforting, and deeply satisfying.
Honorary Mention: Chicory Market
Not every memorable meal in Oxford, MS, comes from a restaurant. Before heading out of town, make time for a stop at Chicory Market, a beloved community grocery that’s been championing local farmers and food makers for more than 30 years. The shelves are filled with thoughtfully curated finds, from artisan cheeses and local bread to fresh produce and prepared foods.
I loaded up on curried chicken salad, ripe pears and mangoes, cheeses, homemade cheesecake dip, and a few irresistible chocolate bars, and it quickly became one of my favorite stops of the trip.
Like every great (and all-too-brief) getaway, Oxford left us with unfinished business. We never made it to the Michelin-recommended Ajax Diner for its beloved Southern comfort food or Taylor Grocery (also Michelin-recommended) for its legendary catfish and oysters. Fortunately, that’s the best kind of travel problem to have. It simply means my daughter and I already have an excuse to plan our next weekend in Oxford. Now, it’s time to plan yours!
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Jenna von Oy Bratcher
Jenna von Oy Bratcher is StyleBlueprint's Editorial Operations Manager and Lead Content Editor. The East Coast native moved to Nashville almost two decades ago, by way of Los Angeles. She is a lover of dogs, strong coffee, traveling, and exploring the local restaurant scene bite by bite.