Meet ‘Pitmistress’ Alex Graf of ZZQ Texas Craft Barbeque
Meet Alex Graf, one half of the husband-wife duo behind Texas Craft ZZQ and see how she's become known as the "Pitmistress!"
Attracting droves of brisket-loving fans throughout the South, the renowned serve-til-they-sell-out establishment of ZZQ Texas Craft Barbeque in Richmond, Virginia is the brainchild of husband-wife duo Alex Graf and Chris Fultz. ZZQ is inspired by the flavors and tradition of central Texas — and it’s a testament to Alex and Chris’s love and passion for both each other and “the pit.”
Fondly referred to as “The Pitmistress,” Alex has brought her joy and sensibility to ZZQ since 2018, earning the accolades such as National Barbecue All-Star by Food & Wine and one of the Best Barbecue Joints in America by Thrillist. Please welcome co-owner and ZZQ Pitmistress Alex Graf as our newest FACE of the South!
Can you tell us about your background and what led you to BBQ?
In 2011, Chris and I started dating. He had an architectural practice, and he already had ZZQ on his truck’s license plate. He had a dream to build a barbecue business someday. He talked while I listened — he smoked a brisket, and I ate and listened. I couldn’t help myself; I was hooked. Our relationship circled around food, but it surrounded BBQ. Initially, we sold whole meats out of our backyard with the help of our first offset smoker, Mabel. We started making sides to go with the meats, and we threw large BBQ parties. We also catered for some friends. We did anything we could to feed people BBQ. We wanted to succeed with this thing and with each other. After 11 years and a pandemic, I feel like we have successfully surrounded our people and ourselves with BBQ.
You and Chris founded ZZQ together. What does that collaborative process look like — in business and the kitchen?
We have good teamwork and support each other. The key is open communication, trust, and the ability to discern what is worth the fight. Occasionally, he reminds me to fight for my ideas. Also, listening is very important.
ZZQ quite literally has devotees. Rumor has it even hurricanes don’t stop folks from lining up. What makes your BBQ so darn addictive?
Our food is all made from scratch. Fires are tended by hand, and we care about what and how we are serving. Over three years, we cultivated a large devout following doing pop-ups at a local brewery and affectionately became known as “Meat Church.” Those loyal customers became the foundation for the success we continue to see today, and we never take them for granted. Consistency is also a big part of our success. There is always room for improvement, and we continually raise the bar for ourselves.
In your opinion, what is the secret to great BBQ flavor?
It starts with a purist dedication to the craft of smoking the meats by hand with wood only. The other aspects are taking care at all levels — from the quality of the meats and preparing them for smoking to the smoking process, and finally, slicing and serving them in front of our guests. There is great respect in all steps of the process.
We don’t often hear the term “Pitmistress.” How did you arrive at that title, and what do you think of it?
Chris and I were dating at the time [that it stuck], and I see my role as complementary and integral to our process. Though I have tended to the pits, I am not — and never will be — a Pitmaster. Even if we make the most delicious brisket, a smile makes it better.
As time progresses, are you seeing more of a female presence in craft BBQ?
In fits and starts. We had a rockstar female pitmaster for several years. She recently left to go back home to be near family. I miss her terribly and am glad that she is still smoking meat. I have watched Ms. Tootsie (pictured below) come into the limelight. She is extraordinary, and I hope she inspires EVERYONE.
Do you have plans to expand ZZQ?
I cannot imagine replicating our BBQ spot. We only ever wanted a single standalone authentic BBQ joint. We are, however, currently building a second restaurant next door to ZZQ — a burger joint called Eazzy Burger. It will have close ties and complementary branding to ZZQ and will focus on craft burgers with beef procured from local regenerative farms.
Outside of BBQ, what are your favorite ways to spend your time?
I make my dresses. I am a quilter and a knitter. [I love] spending time with my adult children. Often, I get some exercise roller skating outside (not reliving the derby days). I do love swimming and a good float, especially when traveling. I had a nice dip in Barton Springs (Austin, TX) early in May.
Who are your mentors — both in and out of the culinary industry?
Danny Meyer’s Setting the Table resonated with me. I’m watching service everywhere, always paying attention to how others in the industry take care of guests. [I’m inspired by] all the folks in my life who are simply kind to each other and themselves.
What’s the most memorable meal you’ve had recently? Where were you, and what did you have?
Kreuz in Lockhart, TX. [I had] sausage and brisket with beans and crackers. Longoven’s small plates and service make me feel like a worthy queen.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?
Breathe and get yourself some flowers.
Outside of faith, family, and friends, what three things can’t you live without?
Good conversation and connection, hugs, and a good meal.
**********
Meet more fabulous Southern women by visiting our FACES archives!
Jenna von Oy Bratcher
Jenna von Oy Bratcher is StyleBlueprint's Associate Editor and Lead Nashville Writer. The East Coast native moved to Nashville almost two decades years ago, by way of Los Angeles. She is a lover of dogs, strong coffee, traveling, and exploring the local restaurant scene bite by bite.