Meet the Caftan Queen of Birmingham: Susan Dumas
Birmingham vintage clothing guru Susan Dumas is a vintage "matchmaker," helping hand-selected pieces find their destined owners. Here, Susan dishes on her passion for vintage and making women feel fabulous — and her fun connection to "The White Lotus!"
Have you been crushing on the show-stopping caftans Victoria Ratliff dons in season three of The White Lotus? Chances are they were sourced from Birmingham’s own “Caftan Queen,” Susan Dumas. We chatted with Susan about the magic of vintage clothing, her wildly popular clothing sales (which she hosts in her home), and how to make vintage work for modern women. Get to know this month’s FACE of Birmingham!
Have you always been interested in fashion and vintage clothing?
I’m originally from Selma, and it was the greatest place to grow up. I started wearing vintage clothes in high school that I would find in my mom’s closet. She was a pseudo-hippie with these awesome wide leather hand-tooled belts and huge topaz rings. I continued hunting for vintage clothes by digging through the drama closet at Camp Mac in the summers and then the rush closet in college.
Then, I moved to San Francisco and found real vintage shops. Oh my goodness! I found — and still have — this orange trench coat with a faux fur collar that makes me feel like dancing. Throughout my life, I have always loved being a little different, and vintage clothes help me do that.
How did you get started selling vintage clothes?
My postman, Jeff, got me started in the vintage clothes business. He stopped by one day and told me I should try to sell some of my clothes “because you don’t do anything and you have a real interesting style.” It was intended as a compliment … I think. To be fair, I did have a huge collection. When you buy vintage clothes on the internet, one piece fits, but then ten don’t. So, I had the inventory.
I got my perfect-bodied sister, Janie, who hates having her picture taken, to pose for me. I had her lean against a bike or tree, and we laughed the whole time. I started an Etsy site, and the clothes started selling — especially to people from Birmingham.
I lived at the lake in the summer, so I thought, “I should have a show when school starts.” I called Janie and asked if she would sit with me because I was certain no one would come. I said, “Let’s wait to see if anyone comes. If no one makes it by 10 a.m., we’ll start drinking.” But people came! Maybe 30 or 40 people, but that’s how it started.
What are your biggest dos and don’ts for newbie treasure hunters when shopping for vintage pieces?
Each piece is one-of-a-kind, so you have to be confident in what you like. Dip your toe in the water and see what makes you feel special. Nothing is more magical than someone walking out of the dressing room in something they feel fabulous in. They are walking on air.
Also, don’t be too hard on the clothes. Some have small moth holes or faint stains. These girls have been around a long time, and imperfections add character.
What tips do you have to help modern women make vintage clothing work for them?
Throw everything you think about sizing out the window. I am a size six and one of my favorite dresses says it is a 22. You have to try on vintage clothes because there are just so many variables. For example, the arm holes might be small even though the dress fits. That’s why it is so magical when you try something on that seems like it was made for you.
We need every single detail about your clothes appearing on The White Lotus! How did that come about?
That’s the craziest thing that has ever happened to me! My friend went to a wedding where she wore a lot of my clothes. Her cousin apparently liked them and told her sister-in-law about them. Her sister-in-law, Alex Brouse, happened to be the costume designer for The White Lotus. I guess she followed my Instagram, where I post my pieces that will be in upcoming shows.
I came home from a big night out to an email from Alex saying she’d like me to help costume the upcoming White Lotus season. Would you believe that? I didn’t. I mentioned it to my friend Caroline the next day, so she Googled Alex and let me know she had been nominated for three Emmys. Holy cow! I responded to Alex immediately, and we made it happen.
When is your next vintage clothing show?
The next show is Wednesday, April 16, and Thursday, April 17, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at my house — 3924 Old Leeds Road, and I CAN’T WAIT!
I love the shows. I’m buying, mending, ironing, and tagging all year long in preparation. Come to my house by yourself or with your whole crew and head downstairs to the basement, where thousands of pieces of vintage clothing, handbags, jewelry, belts, and caftans are waiting for you. My best friends help me, and we are all nice. No mean girls allowed!
My entire house is open, so there are a ton of dressing rooms. All sales are final, and there’s no shopping in between shows.
Who or what is inspiring you right now?
When you are around women trying on clothes, you realize that every single woman has insecurities about their body. I am inspired by women being able to share those secret, negative thoughts out loud because when you shed light on negativity, it starts to dissolve. I am always inspired by authenticity and being humble when you don’t have to be.
Most especially, I am inspired by the ladies of the Lovelady Center who fight so hard from the depths to find peace and purpose in life. They are so full of love for each other and people like me coming into their space. It is amazing.
What is your best piece of advice?
Love yourself. You are enough.
Aside from faith, family, and friends, name three things you can’t live without:
I can’t live without Keratin treatments, my crazy puppy, Captain (who has eaten nine pairs of my shoes), and The First 48 because I want to be a homicide detective in my next life.
LIGHTNING ROUND!
Last delicious local meal: Al Mojo de Ajo from Sol y Luna (dipping bread in the sauce is a religious experience).
Favorite place to vacation: Udaipor, India, without the 14-hour flight
Your go-to gift to give: Vintage clutches that are not big enough to fit your phone, so you’ll leave it at home!
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Birmingham women are doing inspiring work. Meet more of them over at our FACES archives!
Katie Leigh Matthews
A Birmingham native, Katie is a lifelong waterfall chaser and is passionate about the outdoors. She also loves connecting with remarkable women in the Birmingham community and bringing their stories to life. Katie has been writing professionally for over six years; you can find more of her work at Moms.com and Islands.com.